Saba no oshizushi / pressed sushi with grilled mackerel

A specialty sushi from the eastern part of Toyama Prefecture. This sushi appeared at gatherings of relatives at the house of my grandmother on my mother's side in Urayama (Unazuki). We would all get together for mid-summer obon to welcome ancestors as well as to attend spring and fall ennichi festivals at the local shrine. In my mind's eye, I can see my grandmother and aunties working in the large, earthen floor kitchen, chattering away and laughing against the sounds of running water, chopping vegetables and steaming pots, with indulgent smells filling the air. There, they used several huge wooden molds to make hundreds of sushi to feed dozens of people during their stay at the house and to take home. My mom, the youngest of her siblings, claims that gently breaking up grilled mackerel was her role in the sushi making, but she is not in my picture ...

I have a clear visual recollection of me holding a piece of sushi with vivid green sansho leaves. After my grandmother's health deteriorated and we began buying this type of sushi from shops, sansho was always missing, and needless to say there were differences in taste and texture. It was still home style, but certainly not what my family was familiar with.

Because of the big operation I used to see at grandmother's kitchen, I had long thought making this sushi would be too much work. But when I finally made a satisfactory one, it was surprisingly easy -- why couldn't I make this before?

As with masuzushi pressed salmon sushi, making this -- especially mackerel prep and pressing after assembly -- takes a bit of time. It tastes better the next day, too, so plan ahead.


Whole recipe: 1,212 calories; 32.9 g protein; 28.9 g fat; 187.9 g carbohydrate; 185.4 g net carbs; 443 mg sodium (with shiokoji salted rice malt for sushi rice); 69 mg cholesterol; 2.5 g fiber

1/9 cut: 135 calories; 3.7 g protein; 3.2 g fat; 20.9 g carbohydrate; 20.6 g net carbs; 49 mg sodium (with shiokoji salted rice malt for sushi rice); 69 mg cholesterol; 2.5 g fiber

Masuzushi / pressed salmon sushi wrapped with bamboo leaves

A specialty of Toyama, my hometown prefecture, this pressed sushi with masu salmon is wrapped in bamboo leaves and comes in a magewappa round wooden container. It has also been a favorite ekiben (lit. train station bento) of Toyama since 1912, and is a popular souvenir with tourists and business travelers. Masuzushi is traditionally made with sakura masu (Oncorhynchus masou) that come back to the main river running through the prefecture to the Sea of Japan, and more than a dozen long-established masuzushi specialty shops are found near the river off the city center even today. Each shop's masuzushi has slightly different characteristics, and many locals have their favorite shop. Salmon is first treated with salt and then sugar and vinegar, and finally assembled with sushi rice and bamboo leaves. Yet the sushi is not ready for consumption at this point, as it must be pressed for hours to achieve the delicate blend of taste, aroma and texture.

The recipe below is my most successful attempt so far to recreate the masuzushi from a shop I like in Toyama. I use a stainless flour sifter and pie mold bottom as a magewappa substitute, and dried bamboo leaves for chimaki zongzi as a substitute for fresh bamboo leaves.

Whole recipe: 
1,139 calories; 58.5 g protein; 10.4 g fat; 187.0 g carbohydrate; 185.5 g net carbs; 354 mg sodium (with shiokoji salted rice malt for sushi rice; 674 mg with kosher salt for sushi rice); 99 mg cholesterol; 1.5 g fiber

1/4 of recipe:
285 calories; 14.6 g protein; 2.6 g fat; 46.7 g carbohydrate; 46.3 g net carbs; 88 mg sodium (with shiokoji salted rice malt for sushi rice; 169 mg with kosher salt for sushi rice); 25 mg cholesterol; 0.4 g fiber

Nasu no agebitashi / deep-fried eggplant in light broth

A heavenly creamy and juicy eggplant dish for summer. Okra makes marinade broth thick and smooth, while grated ginger clears away the oiliness of eggplant. Since eggplant is deep-fried, a small amount is very satisfying.

Sake no karaage marine / marinated deep-fried salmon (white wine vinegar version)

Marinade based on white wine vinegar has a soft edge, making this a pleasant chilled dish in summer. Lemon and onion slices also neutralize the oily taste of deep-fried salmon while adding a refreshing note. Great as an appetizer with both Asian and Western food.

Zukkiini no ribon sarada / zucchini ribbon salad with lemon & garlic dressing

Ribbons of fresh zucchini are a surefire summer salad hit.

Shiozake to piiman no amazubitashi / grilled salted salmon and green pepper marinated in sweetened rice vinegar

Grilled salmon is paired with juicy grilled green pepper and green onions. Dashi tones down the sweetened rice vinegar marinade and gives grilled ingredients a refreshing, light taste. 

Shiifuudo no kisshu / seafood quiche

My favorite quiche for cold seasons. Great for parties and potlucks, too.

Gujeeru / gougère

Cheese puffs, anyone? A great appetizer and snack for wine imbibers and milk drinkers alike. Gougère also freezes well, making it a convenient party and potluck food.

Jagaimo to ebi no remon haabu sarada / potato and prawn salad with herbs

This has been my top potluck and party dish for years. Lemon juice and fresh herbs turn this starchy salad into a light dish. No matter how many times I make it, I never get tired of eating it.

Natsuyasai no kisshu / Quiche with summer vegetables

One of my potluck or party dishes. Even people who usually avoid vegetable dishes enjoy the rich custard and aromatic basil, and finish their pieces!

Mini jagaimo no nimono / sweet and salty baby potato in reduced broth

A simple combination of soy sauce, sake, mirin and sugar turns those potatoes into tasty little things. Great with rice, beer and sake.

Inarizushi / sushi in tofu packets

Sushi rice bagged in usuage deep-fried tofu packets. By combining somewhat sweet sushi rice with usuage cooked in salty sweet broth, this tasty dish becomes truly satisfying. It is one of the typical rice dishes parents prepare for kids’ school events – at least when I was young. Great for picnics, parties and potlucks.

Chirashizushi / sushi with assorted ingredients and julienned egg crepe

In my hometown, chirashizushi features root vegetables cooked in broth, unlike the chirashizushi topped with raw, marinated or cooked seafood in some other areas, including Tokyo. When I was growing up, chirashizushi always appeared at celebrations such as March 3 (doll festival or girls' day), hanami cherry blossom viewing in April-May, birthdays and gatherings with friends. It is my favorite sushi from the home kitchen.

Kiriboshi-daikon to mizuna, kani no sarada / dried daikon salad with mizuna and crab

Rehydrated dried daikon is sweet and soft. Fresh mizuna gives the salad some crispness. Crabmeat, which goes wonderfully well with mizuna, provides additional depth.

Tsukune no teriyaki / grilled chicken meatballs with teriyaki sauce

One of everyone's favorite chicken dishes. A subtle ginger flavor adds a refreshing note to the teriyaki sauce.

Tonporo / dongpo rou stewed pork

The aroma of these spices takes me back to the streets of Taiwan.

Nanbanzuke / deep-fried fish in sweetened vinegar marinade

This nanbanzuke has lots of vinegar in the marinade and keeps well in the fridge for several days. One of my standard additions to osechi and meal for a group of people. Sliced/julienned ginger and lemon help control the oily aftertaste.

Biitsu no kuriimu sarada / beet cream salad

Little purple-pink cubes in creamy dressing.

Pita pan / pita bread

So easy to make and tastes much better than pre-packed pita.

Whole recipe:
1,270 calories; 39.6 g protein; 19.2 g fat; 231.4 g carbohydrate; 213.6 g net carbs; 282 mg sodium (with shiokoji salted rice malt; 849 mg with kosher salt); 0 mg cholesterol; 17.8 g fiber

1 pita (1/4 of recipe):
315 calories; 9.9 g protein; 4.8 g fat; 57.9 g carbohydrate; 53.4 g net carbs; 71 mg sodium (with shiokoji salted rice malt; 212 mg with kosher salt); 0 mg cholesterol; 4.5 g fiber

1 pita (1/5 of recipe):
254 calories; 7.9g protein; 3.8 g fat; 46.3 g carbohydrate; 42.7 g net carbs; 56 mg sodium (with shiokoji salted rice malt; 170 mg with kosher salt); 0mg cholesterol; 3.6 g fiber

Tahini sauce

The proper companion for falafel.